Now is the time to do residual weed control. This is where we put down a pre-emergence material that keeps the weeds from coming up. The best time to do residual weed control is November through March. If it is done after the weeds appear it is necessary to add Round-up to the mix. It will take a while for the weeds to disappear.
e are getting calls on Mold. Most people think that we can spray something and that it will solve their mold problems forever. With mold it is important to stop the original problem of why mold is in their home. The main cause of mold is water. It can be water standing on the vapor barrier in the crawlspace. It is absolutely a must to get rid of the water. It is usually water from your breath and your perspiration. It can be from cooking, shower baths, laundry, washing dishes, watering plants and aquariums. It can be from many sources.
Mold is always a sign of too much water. Eliminating the water in the crawlspace is very important. Providing drainage in the crawlspace is absolutely necessary. Ventilation of the crawlspace is also important. However, the ventilation should be done during the winter and closed up during the summer. This never happens. The kind of ventilation that should happen is a Heat Recovery Ventilation System. This is one that brings in fresh air and exhausts the stale (moisture ladden) air out of the structure. The ventilators heat exchanger warms the incoming air with the stale air being exhausted. The moisture that we need to be concerned about is the water that is in vapor form. Water in vapor form is a gas. It is molecules in individual form disolved in the air. Water molecules are very small and can move directly through the drywall molecules. It then goes through the fiberglass until it reaches the dew point. It then turns into liquid water in the wall void. There it remains because there is no ventilation in the wall. With this additional moisture then the fungus (mold) spores germinate and mold is formed. This is the reason that we at Olympic Spray Service took on the Icynene Insulation System. Icynene is an air barrier. Therefore it prevents water molecules, dissolved in the air, from being absorbed into the wall void.
Icynene allows the ventilation system to really do its job. Icynene can make a house so tight that youi need to have a ventilation system bringing in fresh air for the people to breathe. The excess moisture is also taken out of the structure at the same time.
We recommend that a heat recovery ventilation (HRV) have a HEPA filter. This is a filter that removes dust, dust mites, pollen, spores and other air born particles from the air that you breathe. This makes the air more pure than is normally inside of a house. A HEPA filter is better for removing particles than a electrostatic filter.
Olympic Spray Service would be happy to give you a bid for treating your structure for mold; however, it is probably more important to consider installing an HRV in the structure. If you are interested please call us at 457-4341, 379-3862 or 1-800-828-5508.
DOT is a salt. That means that it is very stable. If you take a solution of DOT in a kettle and boil it until all of the water is driven off you will still have Disodium Octoborate Tetrahydrate crusted at the bottom of the kettle. Once it is sprayed onto the wood it will remain in the wood. Forever. Tim-bor is DOT. Tim-bor is the only formulation that we use for the treatment of Anobiid beetle (Powder post beetle). DOT is the only material that has really been proven to control Anobiid beetle. Get the job done right the first time call us at 457-4341, 379-3862 or 1-800-828-5508.
DOT also works well against termites and fungus rot. We make the wood toxic to the termite or fungus rot. DOT was used for control of fleas, but the original supplier withdrew it because of the unscrupulous practices of one pest control company. That company now has to obtain it through third parties. DOT is best used on the lowest parts of the structure. (2 feet up) for termites. However, we will use it to pickle every timber in the structure to control moisture ants, odorous house ants, carpenter ants to keep them from destroying the framework of the structure. Carpenter ants can still exist in the insulation as the insulation is solid enough for them to raise their larvae in the insulation.
Slugs and snails can be very plentiful during the Spring and Summer. They usually come out in the late evening or night when the moisture is high. They eat on foliage and leave much evidence of where they have been. Sections of the leaf maybe eaten away from the center. When you go to look for the slug you cannot find them. They are masters of disapearing. You may see signs of slug tracking which are shiny trails on the leaves. If you need help in curing your slug or snail problems then call us at 1-360-457-4341, 1-360-379-3862 or 1-800-828-5508.
This is a White Amarillis with pink edges. Enjoy.
Tapinoma sissile is the scientific name for Odorous House Ants. This is an ant that is probably the most difficult to control. We usually need to do an Outside Perimeter Preventive Treatment (OPPT). The reason for this is that they probably came in from the outside in the beginning. We like to use a non-repellant insecticide so the ant will continue to move over the treated area. The more times an ant travels over this material the more they pick up. They then transfer the material to other ants. This material usually takes a little longer to gain control. Be patient. Some times it is necessary to treat the inside of the structure. This may require the use of another non-repellant insecticide and/or some baits. The insecticide is “pinstreamed” into the cracks and crevices where the ants are “hiding”.
Odorous House Ants will “farm” other species (aphids and scale) that produce nectar from the juices of the plant on which they are infesting. The will protect them from other species. In the home the ant likes sugar, syrups, jams and jellies. They are often called “Sugar Ants”.
We ofen consider that Odorous House Ants are an indicator of a problem with the structure. Many people will not recognize the problem as they are not aquainted with conditions that may exist within the walls of structures. The problem is moisture that may accumulate within the wall voids. This is often caused by structures that are wrapped with plastic house wraps. The moisture enters the wall void from within the structure, as a molecule of water in gaseous form. When it reaches the dew point within the wall void it will turn back into liquid water and the liquid water cannot get out of the structure because of the house wrap. This creates a condition within the wall that is very desireable to the ant species. A heat recovery ventilation system with a HEPA filter is probably one of the best ways of addressing this problem. Olympic Spray Service has the materials to prevent odorous house ants. That includes the material for the outside perimeter preventive treatment, the material for the inside crack and crevise, gel baits, the heat recovery ventilation system and Icynene insulation. All of these materials are logical ways of combating odorous house ants. If you would like a quote on any of these materials or services, please call us at 457-4341, 379-3862 or 1-800-828-5508.
I don’t have the name of this little weed, but it is one of the most bothersome little varmits there is. It produces seed shortly after blooming and when the seed pod is touched it explodes seeds in all directions. If anyone knows the name of this thing please call me or leave a comment on this blog. We know how to control it. If you are having a problem with this weed, please give us a call at 457-4341, 379-3862 or 1-900-828-5508.
The Brown Recluse Spider does not exist in Clallam or Jefferson Counties of Washington. The visual here is just for comparison.
The golden buprestid beetle is often taken for a wood boring beetle that is causing damage to a structure. It is but its damage is usually restricted to the one board iin which the beetle first laid its eggs. Sometimes they are mistaken for carpenter ant damage. Fecal pellets will be coming out of a gallery and the emergence hole has a pecular shape. Sometimes these will be discovered in an open beam in a living room. If the tunnel is viewed
from the front it will have a rounded base and a veed top. It will be about 1/4th inch high and 5/16 of an inch wide. Sometimes the insect will die where it is trying to emerge. Or, a bright shiny emerald green beetle will be discovered in a window. The margins of the beetle will be gold in color. This is the golden buprestid beetle. Its larvae is called the flat headed wood borer. A picture is presented here. This beetle requires no treatment.
It can stay in the wood for 40 years. The eggs are layed in the wood when it is green or first harvested. When it leaves it will not reinfest dry wood. The eggs were probably in the wood when it was first put into the house. It may be only in one board.
This is the season for an increase in adulk carpet beetles to be seen indoors (although they can be se
en all year long. Carpet beetles belong to a family of beetles known as Dermestids. These insects are pests in warehouses, homes, museums and other locations. Native adult carpet beetle populations feed on pollen and nectar in landscaing plants and shrubs that bloom in spring and early to midsummer (like pitasporum, spirea and crepemyrtle); they then subsequently make their way into client homes and structurees through open windows, cracks in screens, and under doors. (Or they can also be brought into the home on cut flowers!)
Every house will normally have a few carpet beetles. But, in large numbers carpet beetles can cause damage by larval stage feeding on protein-containing materials like our favorite woolen sweater, down comforter or fur stole; leather jackets or moccasin shoes are also attacked. If there is a rodent, bird, bat, wasp/bee nest or urban wildlife infestation in the home recently, these beetlles will also come to break down any dead or decaying carcasses that may be present. They will even feed on silken cobwebs, if a large spider infestation is present. If there are pets in the home, a build up of fur and hair can accumulate over time in corners and vents and at base boards, and this will support an infestaion as well. They also can eat carpets and fabrics made of silk, mohair, angora or wool. But, museum specimens, hides and various stored products can also be infested. Sometimes felts and hammers of pianos can become infested and so badly damaged that the tone and action of the instrument is seriously affected. Another unusual infestation can be seen within antique homes where horse hair has been incorporated into the wall as part of the insuIation.
It is actually the beetle larvae who feed with their mandibles and do the damage that is seen. All three carpet beetles species seen (Varied carpet beetles, Black carpet beetles and Furniture carpet beetles) share a similar life history. Adults lay eggs on the larval food source. Eggs hatch in about 2 weeks and the larvae feed for varying periods, depending upon species and environmental conditions. The larvae prefer dark secluded areas. When ready to pupate, the larvae may burrow further into the food (i.e. carpet or sweater) or wander and burrow elsewhere. They may also pupate within the last larval skin if no other shelter is available. Larvae do not make webs as clothes moths do, but their shed skins and fecal pellets, which are about the size of a grain of salt, make it obvious where they have been feeding. Adults are attracted to light and may be found near windows.
Management
Carpet beetles are among the most difficult indoor pests to control, they can find food in obscure places and disperse widely throughout a building. Successful control depends on integrating the use of sanitation, exclusion and appropriate insecticide applications.
Seek out the source of the infestation. A thorough inspection is required to try and isolate what they are coming to a food resource- a carpet or a sweater, etc. You’ll see the damage from the larval feeding; you may see the larvae themselves or the adults; however, the eggs are small and cannot be seen with the unaided eye. It is not always possible to tell from the damage whether it was caused by clothes moths or carpet beetles, but in general, the beetles are more likely to damage a large area on one portion of a garment or carpet while moth damage more often appears as scattered holes. Also, carpet beetle larvae leave brown, shell-like, bristly cast skins when they molt.
The client should eliminate accumulations of lint, dead insects, and other debris that serve as food for carpet beetles. A house may need to have its air ducts cleaned to remove any existing fur or hair accumulations there. Infestations can harbor in these ducts. Regular and thorough cleaning of rugs, draperies, upholstered furniture, closets and other locations where carpet beetles congregate is an important important preventive and contrl technique. Frequent vacuuming is an effective way of removing food sources as well as the carpet beetles themselves.
Keep fabrics cleaned; both food and perspiration stains on fabrics can attract carpet beetles. Dry cleaning or laundering items on a hot water and hot dryer cycle kills all life stages of these insects. This is the most common method used to control fabric pests in clothing and other washable articles. Mounted animal specimens, such as museum specimens or game trophies, should be periodically placed in a freezer for 10 to 14 days. Inspect stored woolens, linens and furs. If infestations are found, launder or dry clean these items to destroy carpet beetle adults, larvae and eggs before returning them to storage. Small chamber fumigations may also be useful for various items, especially delicate things like museum specimens. Proper fumigation gives , satisfactory control and kills all life stages of fabric pests. Keep in mind: It does not however prevent re-infestations.
To properly store and protect items in storage that are susceptible to carpet beetles, first make sure the items are pest free and clean. Then, place them in airtight containers. Cleaning is always the best strategy for carpet beetles management; however, areas or articles that cannot be dry cleaned or laundered can be treated with an insecticide that lists carpet beetles on the label. Be sure to always read the label and follow all label directions. Apply insecticides as spot treatments and limit treatments to edges of floor coverings, under rugs and furniture, floors and walls of closets, shelving where susceptible items are stored, cracks and crevices and in other lint-accumulating areas. Be sure not to treat clothing and bedding. When treating attics, wall voids and other inaccessible places, dust formulations may be used.
On rugs and carpets, closely inspect areas beneath heavy furniture and along carpet edges for infestations. Treat both sides of the infested carpet if at all possible. Apply a lighter treatment to the upper surace so that the possibility of staining is reduced. If the rug pad contains animal hair or wool and has not been treated by the manufacturer, treat it also. It is preferable to wait until the rug has dried before putting any weight on it. Alternative methods of controlling dermestid beetles are either to freeze an infested object by placing it in a freezer (enclosed in a plastic bag) for 2 weeks at temperatures below 18°F, or heating it for at least 30 minutes to a temperature above 120°F. (Before using either of these methods, consider if the object will be damaged by cold or heat.)
When carpet beetles threaten products, a monitoring program using sticky traps baited with an an appropriate pheromone lure is recommended. (See distributor for such lures.) Traps placed throughout a building can show where beetles are coming from. (but may also attract some from outside to the indoors. so use caution placing them!), the traps are also useful as a monitoring tool for the effectiveness of your management applications.
(The above information came from the National Pest Management Association.)
The drawings provide at the beginning of this article are the Varigated Carpet Beetle and its larvae and the Furniture Carpet Beetle and its larvae. These are just for reference so that you may be able to identify each. John